Morph Leopard Gecko

Species: Leopard Gecko
Scientific Name: Eublepharis macularius
Origin: Leopard geckos are a crepuscular, ground-dwelling lizard native to semi-desert and arid grassland areas of Afghanistan, Pakistan, India, and Nepal.
Lifespan: 15-20 years on average
Size: 7-10 Inches 
Enclosure Type: Leopard geckos should be permanently housed in a 10 or 20 gallon enclosure to prevent them from getting “overwhelmed” Most leopard gecko keepers prefer to house their geckos in glass aquariums or terrariums, which are attractive and can help create a more varied temperature gradient. However, if you have trouble with your temperatures, wood and PVC enclosures insulate very well and are quite popular. We do not recommend cohabitation for pet leopard geckos. Multiple geckos housed together can result in dropped tails, severe bite wounds, and even broken bones. 
Enclosure Size: It is recommended that adult leopard geckos be housed in no smaller than a 36″ x 18″ x 18″ enclosures with at least 4.5 sq ft of floor space. Floor space is the most important consideration here, as they are terrestrial (ground-dwelling) lizards.
Substrate: Loose, naturalistic substrate are the best kinds of substrate for housing leopard geckos. Some Good options are:  Zoo Med Reptisand, Jurassic Sands Reptile Substrate, Lugarti Natural Reptile Bedding and DIY Naturalistic Mix. You can also try to create your own Bioactive terrarium setup that is designed to mimic a reptile’s natural environment and stimulate natural behaviors.
Décor: Decorating your leopard gecko terrarium enhances their quality of life by mimicking their natural environment and providing mental stimulation. There are many things you can use to decorate your terrarium and stimulate your leapord gecko including: hides/caves, (A at minimum One is needed on both the cool and warm sides of the enclosure. But you can add as many as you want). Plants, Rocks A Water bowl, & Backdrop.
Water: Geckos drink readily from water bowls, so they need on in their enclosure. It should be shallow enough that the gecko can’t drown by accident, and the water should be replaced daily or whenever it gets dirty.
Temperature: Leopard geckos, like all reptiles, need a temperature gradient in their terrarium for best health. Leopard geckos prefer to hide in warm shelters during the daytime, using their warmth to “charge” themselves for nighttime activity. Ideally a leopard gecko should have minimum 2 hides placed at different spots around the enclosure to facilitate thermoregulation: one on the warm end near the heat source, and one on the cool end.
•    Basking surface temperature: 94-97°F (34-36°C)
•    Warm hide temperature: 90-92°F (32-33°C) 
•    Cool end: 70-77°F (21-25°C)
At night, leopard geckos can tolerate a drop in temperature down to 60°F (16°C). Studies show that a nightly drop in temperature is healthier than maintaining the same temperatures as during the day, and is greatly beneficial for a reptile’s long-term health. 

Humidity: Leopard geckos are desert animals, so they need a fairly dry environment to stay healthy. Ideal daytime humidity will be between 30%-40%, which should match the humidity naturally in your home. Housing your gecko in a terrarium with a screen top or equivalent ventilation will help keep it dry. However, occasional spikes higher than this are perfectly safe as long as the enclosure is well-ventilated.
When it comes to shedding time they do need higher humidity for shedding. If the whole enclosure has to high of a humidity level and the gecko cannot escape the high levels it can cause your gecko to get sick. So Instead of bumping up humidity in the whole enclosure you can provide a humid hide lined with moistened substrate or wet paper towel and placed in the middle to cool end of the enclosure. The humid hide should provide humidity levels between 70-80%.
Lighting: Leopard geckos are crepuscular, which means that they most active at dawn/dusk. While their eyes evolved for low light conditions, and they tend to be much more active during the night than during the day, this does not mean that they do not need lighting as part of their enclosure setup. Having a light on in the tank helps regulate their day/night cycle, which is good for their mental health and stimulates appetite. Light should be provided for 14 hours/day during the summer, which simulates their optimal photoperiod. To simulate the change of the seasons, reduce the amount of light to 12 hours during winter. A UVB Bulb With 2-7% Output will provide enough UVB needed for your gecko.  Halogen bulbs are particularly excellent because they produce Infrared A and Infrared B, which are the same wavelengths of heat produced by the sun. 50-75W halogen bulbs are suitable for most enclosures, but ensure you have a thermostat to regulate the temperature and prevent burns. These wavelengths penetrate deep into your gecko’s body, providing a more efficient form of heating and reducing the amount of time your gecko needs to bask.
•    Wild type (“normal”) and other well-pigmented leopard geckos should have a basking UV Index between 0.5 – 1.5*
•    Black or red lights are not needed for nighttime heat, and can interfere with your gecko’s day/night cycle. In fact, blue lights are known to potentially damage reptiles’ eyes! It is best to save your money and not purchase one
Type Of Diet: Leopard geckos are insectivores, which means that they eat primarily insects. 
Types Of Food:  Crickets, Mealworms, Hornworms (captive only; wild hornworms are toxic!), Dubia roaches, Discoid roaches, Silkworms, Black soldier fly larvae. If you would life to give your gecko a treat you can feed Superworms (small), Wax worms & Butter worms. But, be sure to only feed these treats once a week because these worms are very high in fat.
Feeding Schedule: Offer 2 appropriately-sized bugs per 1 inch of your leopard gecko’s length, or however much they can eat in 15 minutes. Juveniles should be fed daily, and young adults fed every other day/every 3 days. Adults whose tail is fatter than their neck can be fed every 5 days. Do not leave feeder insects in your gecko’s enclosure all day. Crickets and other feeders nibble on geckos in their sleep, sometimes causing serious injuries. If at all possible, make sure to offer a rotation of at least 3 different types of feeders. Offering a variety provides enrichment for your gecko, as well as varied nutrition to prevent nutrient deficiency!
Supplements: All insect feeders should be dusted with calcium powder. If you’re not using a UVB light, be sure to use a supplement that includes vitamin D3 to prevent Metabolic Bone Disease. Leopard geckos also need an occasional multivitamin. Dust insects with a multivitamin powder once a week for young geckos and once every other week for adult geckos.